“You don’t think of a cave being complex architecturally,” says American architect Anne Toxey, author of Materan Contradictions,
who has been studying the Sassi for over 20 years. “But I was blown
away by their intricate structures.” The most elaborate stonework dates
from the Renaissance, when many caves were adorned with new facades, or
had their ceilings extended to make vaulted rooms. Today, carved stone
stairways still connect arches, attics, belfries and balconies, each
grafted onto the other like a dynamic Cubist sculpture. Hidden behind
iron grilles are rock-hewn churches, created by Byzantine monks, with
splendidly frescoed interiors. On the opposite side of the ravine, on a
plateau called the Murgia, more mysterious caves stare back like vacant
eyes."